QuietWarmth for floating floors works great under floating plank installations. This video shows the preparation and steps to install QuietWarmth for Floating Floors.
View QuietWarmth for Floating Floors: https://mpglobalproducts.com/heated-flooring-systems/products/floating-floors/
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TimeStamps:
Preparing the Layout: 0:00
Type of Sub-floor and Underlayment 0:45
Tools Needed 1:35
Laying Mats & Cutting to Length 1:47
Running Lead Wires 2:46
Final Steps 3:58
Transcript:
It is always good practice to sketch out a room and diagram where the mats would fit. The instruction manual has some handy graph paper to help with this as well as we have a “room design tool” feature This tool allows guests to get help with laying out their mats in a room by a QuietWarmth technician.
Once you have your room laid out, you will need to plan where you’ll hook up the leads to your 20-amp dedicated circuit. A licensed electrician will be able to help set one up from the main electrical box. The Quietwarmth system does need to be protected by a GFCI which thoughtfully is incorporated into any of the Quietwarmth branded thermostats.
For floating floor applications, ensure the subfloor is level and prepared properly according to the flooring manufacturers’ recommendations. Over concrete, ensure a 6-mil vapor barrier like Moisture Block is put down first. QuietWarmth will then be rolled out on top of the moisture barrier across the floor or where you want to have spot heating in your room.
Today, we are showing how to install over a wood subfloor. Roll out the proper underlayment for your flooring needs. In this example today, we are using QuietWalk LV multipurpose underlayment and we have it pre-sized to fit our space. Follow the underlayment instructions to properly install it.
Unroll the QuietWarmth mats in the position that is desired and check proper clearances for accurate fit. Leave 5 inches of space from walls and other objects. If the length of the mat needs to be cut, do so by measuring off the amount needed and cut along the dotted lines between the black stripes. Discard the extra cut material and cap off the silver bus bars at the ends with the provided Kapton discs. This will insulate the ends properly and not let unwanted electricity to escape that could cause the thermostat to trip. If no cutting is needed, the mats are already pre-capped with the Kapton discs and are ready to go.
The manual included in the packaging has a chart to help with ohms readings, always ensure to take and record Ohms readings during steps of the install.
The next step is to run the lead wires to the wall where a junction box would be placed. It doesn’t matter which side of the mat faces up, so the customer can easily position the leads to the shortest distance to the wall. In many cases, for floating floors to lay evenly, you will need to notch out or create shallow channels in the subfloor and underlayment to recess the connections and the lead wires. To save time, we have this step done, but can be used with a variety of rotary saw tools of your choice. Duct tape the leads down to the subfloor and it is good practice to label the lead wires to which mat they belong for the electrical hook up later. This can be as easy as putting a 1 on the white wire and a 1 on the black wire to indicate those belong to mat 1 in your sketch or diagram.
Often in renovations, lead wires will run to a wall. And when installing several mats, the leads will run to a junction box where you will wire the leads in parallel – meaning all white wires cap together and all-black wires cap together. The final hook-up of the lead wires to power should be done by a licensed electrician and ensure to follow all local and national electrical codes.
*For Float and Tile mats using 120V, one thermostat controls up to 120 square feet of mats. When using 240V, one thermostat can control up to 240 square feet. *
