QuietWarmth for Existing Floors Preparation and Installation

Interested in floor heating but already have the flooring installed? QuietWarmth Joist mats are the perfect solution!

View QuietWarmth Joist Mats: https://mpglobalproducts.com/heated-flooring-systems/products/existing-floors/

TimeStamps
Preparing the Layout 0:00
What Makes Joist Install Different 0:23
Tools Needed 0:50
Cutting the Mats 0:58
Installation Under Joist 1:58
Final Power Hookups 3:01

Installation Instructions:
https://mpglobalproducts.com/_storage/_products/existing-floors/QuietWarmth-Install-Guide_JOIST-7×8.5_2021-InHouse.pdf

Installation Instructions (Spanish): https://mpglobalproducts.com/_storage/_products/existing-floors/QuietWarmth-InstallGuide_JOIST-SPANISH_7x8.5_2021.pdf

Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/quietwalkpad/

Transcription:

You will need to plan where you’ll hook up the leads to your 20-amp dedicated circuit. A licensed electrician will be able to help set one up from the main electrical box. The Quietwarmth system does need to be protected by a GFCI which thoughtfully is incorporated into any of the Quietwarmth branded thermostats.

The joist installation is slightly different than the previous 2 applications because it doesn’t install directly underneath the floor covering materials. Joist Mat can be installed at any point under an existing floor as long as there is accessibility to the floor joints like in a basement or crawl space. Only 16-inch on-center joist spacing will work for this Joist mat installation.

You will need an OHMs meter, a staple gun, and a pair of scissors to help with this installation. Just as before, Pre-plan and measure the lengths that are needed. All leads should run to a junction box. Again, measure out the lengths of your joist area and cut the joist mats where it says to cut only. This is a bit different than the Tile and Float as you cannot cut just anywhere between the black strips. Each mat is comprised of a series of panels that are spaced 1 foot apart. Cut at these 1-foot increments – ONLY – and it is labeled for cutting at these spots. This is important because cutting into any other area will disable the mat.

Once you’ve cut to the length needed, cover the cut bus bar ends with the provided Kapton discs to insulate the mat from any electrical leakage and potential tripping. Measure and record the Ohms again and ensure it matches the resistance values given in the instruction booklet.

Now we are ready to staple these up. This side with the yellowish color will to be the visible side we see when we are done hanging the mats. Note this perforated edge to the mats, it will allow for easy stapling to the joist. It is easiest to install 1 side completely first – and install it two inches below the decking. It is good practice to make a few guide marks on each side to know where to line the mats up as you go. Then staple along close to the perforated edge and about every 12-inches. Then carefully fold the other side of the mat upward and bend down the other perforated side edge and staple it close to the bend line ensuring the mat is level between the 2 joists. There will be a 2-inch air gap below the subfloor decking. It is good practice to recheck the mat’s resistance again with the Ohm meter to ensure no damage occurred during the hanging of the mats.

Just as before, run all lead wires to the junction box and wire them in parallel just as before – white wires to white wires and black wires to black wires. Again, label each mat wire so you know what mat it belongs to is very good practice. Remember, all final power hookups should be performed by a licensed electrician.

Ensuring that we are pushing the heat upwards, install thermal insulation beneath the joist mat. When first turning on in-floor heat, it may take up to 72 hours for full results on the surface of the floor covering.

*For Float and Tile mats using 120V, one thermostat controls up to 120 square feet of mats. When using 240V, one thermostat can control up to 240 square feet. *